From Chaikhana Tables to Timed Matches, Kurdish Board Game 'Dama' Tries to Reinvent Itself

ERBIL (Kurdistan24) – To the uninitiated visitor walking past a Chaikhana near the Citadel in Erbil or the bustling bazaar in Sulaimani, the sound is unmistakable and rhythmic: a sharp, assertive "clack" that rises above the hum of conversation and the clinking of glass tea cups. It is not merely the sound of a game piece moving; it is a declaration of dominance, a psychological strike known as the "slap." 

Inside these establishments, amid a haze of cigarette smoke and the aroma of strong tea served in small "piyale" glasses, men sit on low stools, their attention riveted to a wooden board. This is the world of Dama—often called Dame in Kurmanji—a pastime that is far more than a board game. It is a ritual of social cohesion, a "parliament of the people," and a vital link to a pre-digital past that is currently fighting for its future in the city of Bokan in Eastern Kurdistan.

Dama is a traditional board game that, among its many cultural functions, serves as a unifying thread connecting Kurds across regions and wherever they may live.

While the game itself is technically identical to Turkish Draughts, its context within the Kurdish community gives it a unique flavor and profound significance.

Unlike Western or International checkers, which relies on diagonal movement, Dama is an "orthogonal" game. Played on a standard 8x8 board, often utilizing a grid without the familiar checkering, it uses all 64 squares. Each player commands 16 pieces—known as pûl—lined up in two rows, leaving the back row empty.

The pieces move straight forward or sideways, never diagonally. The gameplay is defined by mandatory, often brutal capturing; if a player can take a piece, they must. This rule forces a high-stakes, aggressive style of play where sacrifice is common to open a lane for a "Dama."

When a piece reaches the opponent's back row, it becomes a King, gaining "flying" abilities similar to a chess rook, sliding across the entire board to capture enemies from a distance.

For generations, the arena for this strategic warfare has been the Chaikhana, the beating heart of male social life in cities like Duhok, Erbil, and Sulaimani. It is often described as the most democratic space in Kurdistan, where social hierarchy dissolves over the board; a taxi driver might challenge a university professor, and a laborer might outmaneuver a politician.

The game is deeply woven into the region's history.

Legend has it that at the famous Chaikhana Shaab (The People's Teahouse) in Sulaimani, a historical hub for intellectuals and poets, Dama games served as a cover during the Ba'athist regime for resistance members to meet and organize, whispering plans while appearing engrossed in the game.

It represents patience, or "sebir," and strategic foresight, celebrated by spectators who stand silently in crowds of ten or fifteen around a tense match, nodding in approval at a masterstroke.

However, this ancient tradition is facing a threat from the digital age.

As younger Kurds increasingly turn to mobile games like PUBG or football, the Chaikhana is viewed by some as an "old man's place." In response, a movement to save the game and bridge this generation gap has emerged, culminating this week in a significant event in Eastern Kurdistan.

In the city of Bokan, a draughts competition was held just three hours ago, signaling a major shift from the informal alleyway games to professional sportsmanship. The event saw the participation of more than 50 players from the provinces of Sanandaj and Urmia, drawing "damabaz" (Dama players) from cities including Marivan, Saqqez, Baneh, Sardasht, Piranshahr, Shno, Naghadeh, and Mahabad.

Unlike the casual matches of the teahouses, this competition was held in a professional manner in the style of international draughts games, utilizing special clocks to time moves—a rigorous standard for the participants.

The organizers of the competition have a clear vision for these events. "Their goal is to encourage young people towards this game," the organizers stated, noting that these local matches are vital preparation for a much larger ambition: holding an international draughts competition in Bokan within this Kurdish year, before the festival of Newroz.

Luqman Shahabi, the director of the board of local games of the city of Bokan, spoke to Kurdistan24 about the cultural imperative behind the tournament. "We want to reconcile the youth with the local Kurdish games," Shahabi said. "We hope to organize a draughts competition at the world level, hosted by the city of Bokan, before Nowruz and the beginning of the new Kurdish year."

The tournament featured veteran players who have dedicated decades to the board, proving that the game's appeal endures. Hussein Khalidi, a resident of Saqqez, told reporters, "I have been playing draughts for 33 years. This is the umpteenth competition I have participated in. In fact, the level of this competition was very good."

Abubakr Sham, a resident of Mahabad and a seasoned damabaz with experience in world games, emphasized that Dama deserves global respect. "I have been playing draughts for 22 years. I have won first place two or three times," Sham said. "Draughts is a world game, contrary to what people think, that they only play it in alleys and old markets. Now draughts has become a world game."

Despite the enthusiasm of the players and the rich cultural history—from the local legends of masters like Erbil's "Mam Aziz" to the oral traditions passed down over the boards—the sport faces institutional challenges in Eastern Kurdistan. Dama is not yet officially recognized as a sport by the government's sports departments, meaning no budget is allocated for it, and players lack a dedicated facility. The Bokan competition had to be held in the city's chess board hall for this reason.

Nasser Shiri, the winner of the Bokan Draughts Association award, used the platform to advocate for the game's future. "I ask the officials to pay attention to draughts just as they pay attention to the game of chess," Shiri said. "In fact, many people in this city play draughts, but they still do not have a special place to gather and play."

As the seven rounds of the competition concluded and the winners were awarded, the event stood as a testament to the resilience of the "Parliament of the People." The organizers hope that by the time the international competition arrives, they will have their own suitable hall, ensuring that the sharp "slap" of the Dama piece continues to echo for the next generation.

Kurdistan24's news writer Kamel Bokani contributed to this report.